Jules, Steve L, Adrian, Steve J and myself just returned from a week long roadtrip to Mt Arapiles - the mecca of Australian rockclimbing.
We camped in the Pines and where blessed with 6 days of perfect (not too hot) weather for this time of year. Most days we where climbing by 9am and finishing at dark - 9.30pm. It was the life - reminded me of old days roadtripping across the US.

The first day saw us do some of the Classics such as the awesome multi-pitches of Muldoon (13) and Agemenon (11). We also did a couple of single pitch routes such as Little Thor (20), Cassandra Direct (22) and Pilot Error (20).



Day two, we hit the watchtower faces where Ace, Jules and Steve L climbed Arachanus (9) while Steve and I swung leads on Aphrodite (10) - each route being 3 pitches. In the afternoon Steve and I did Trapeze (11) and swinging (17) on the spectacular Castle Crag. We finished the day with a few routes at the Plaque area with Steve J leading Minimus (14), Ace Maximus (17) and myself Camelot (10). I finished the day by flashing (with pre-placed gear) Dramp (21).


Day 3. We went up to Preludes Wall where Ace, Steve J and I did Transylvania (11), then we headed out on a ledge to an awesome and exposed Cheepers (22). This climb provided great photos and climbing but dodgy protection. In the end Ace took a deck fall swinging into boulders at the base when the fixed sling snapped (lucky the dodgy bolt held and slowed his fall a little). In the afternoon we hit the Organ Pipes, where Steve J lead Digeridoo (12) while Ace did D minor (14) and D major (9).

Day 4 saw us all do the hyper-classic Lamplighter/Lady Diahedral (15) link-up, after Jules, Steve and Ace did Trapeze (11) and Swinging (17). We climbed in two teams, with me bringing up all the boys on the last pitch so Steve L and Jules could climb pitches 2 and 3 straight through - good fun and a very efficient way to climb fast.

In the afternoon Ace, Steve J and I headed over to a shaded gully to try Pulpy Kidney (23). I hung in there for the onsight which I was pleased about as I was facing an ugly ground fall when I reached the end of the difficult climbing at the second bolt. Adrian and Steve J both redpointed this route - easily Steve's hardest climb since 1996!

Day 5. Jules and Steve L both rested due to Bicep injuries, so Steve J, Ace and I went out to Uncle Charlies Pinnacle. We warmed up by all leading the classic Coming on Chris (14). Then I equipped Nose Job (24) while lowering- off. What a great line - starting with a grade 21 slab, then a pinchy slopey steep headwall. Ace redpointed the route second shot! I tried for the flash fell at the last hard move and failed ther 3 more times after receiving the flash pump from hell - maybe next year!


We finished up the day trying Sonic Boom. No success but we ended up taking a few falls on a number 1 cam in an ordinary placement - good to see the gear at work after also taking numerous falls on a number 5 wire on Nose Job.

Day 6 - the last day of the trip : - ( Everyone was exhausted so we had an easy day planned. We headed to the Organ Pipes where Steve J led the business end of D minor (14) and then led Aardvark (18). Then it was of to the pub at Natimuk for lunch and time to get psyched for Kachoong. We had been out and abseiled Kachoong the day before and Ace and I where very apprehensive about climbing it. The exposure is unreal for such a short route and the roof looked longer than we expected. But at 4.30pm we headed off to give it a go.
After placing the gear on the way down, I tied in and started up to the roof. The climbing was amazing and I was soon at the roof and feeling comfortable, the roof was straight forward and before I knew it I was at the no-hands rest over the lip - job done!! Ace led the route straight away and then after a struggle to clean the gear we headed back to the pines for celebratory beers.


What an awesome trip. Thanks to the boys for all the belays, hours behind the wheel and great company. Thanks also to Karla for the time off (I missed her Birthday - sorry). The trip is on again next year - first week of 2011!! Hope to see a few more join the ranks (Gav, DJ, the Raisons?....)