First up a trad line that is the obvious crack that Martyrdom starts up. The route starts with an awkward layback then an easy slab with a final thrutchy roof section. Bomber gear all the way but a little committing pulling the slab after the roof. A nice old style route (I think the route may have been climbed previously though I did have to remove a lot of chockstones and soil so I am claiming it as first ascent until proven otherwise). I have called the route 'The Fugly Friend' (19) because it is not the route I wanted to do (Martyrdom) but the next best thing. Photos below of Gav cleaning the The Fugly Friend.
Next we moved down to another trad line. This time Gav took the honours on a route that starts with some runners in a corner before a wild traverse right to an arete and then some delicate slabbing. There is solid gear though a lob of the crux would sending you crashing into the corner. It is a great little route at about grade 15 (yet to be named).We packed away the racks and moved up the crag to the new routes Gav has bolted. I dogged my project and got the moves sorted only to have it start raining. I quickly lowered to the ground and had a rushed redpoint - taking a whipper of the crux. The holds got wet and we thought the day was gone. We moped around and checked out some new lines before the sun reappeared and dried out the crag. Gav had a play on his grade 30 slab and I had one last go on my route. Success! (for me at least) No-name yet - any suggestions? Grade - solid 24 I think.
