New Project at PC

Gav very kindly bolted me the a great line at Planet Clare. I had spied the line earlier this year but hadn't made any effort to clean or bolt the route so Gav got motivated did two routes for himself and one for moi. Thanks mate.

The route is awesome. Delicate footwork in shallow pockets, balancy sidepulls and two cruxes. The first crux is a cross through move into a shallow two finger pocket some tricky foot moves and a long reach to a sidepull. The second crux is an uncling into a crimpy sequence reminiscence of Paddington at Centennial Glen.

The route didn't go today as we only had an hour at the crag - not enough time to warm up, learn the moves and then redpoint - maybe next time. I did have one redpoint but fell at the top crux twice, then went to the top. I have edited the footage together to show what the route will look like and put the falls on at the end (some of the hard moves are well above the bolts). It is bad footage - sorry hard when there are only two at the crag and you have a stills camera with a grainy video function. I will try and get better footage when I tick the route.

No name yet and grade to be announced - around 25 I think


Gav's new routes are a blank slab and an extension to great little 23, both look very hard maybe 26 and 24 respectively. Plenty more new routes to come aswell on natural gear.