Wednesday, November 18, 2009

More Routes at Planet Clare

We had a good afternoon in surprisingly cool conditions. Some nice climbing was done and I even took a nice size winger when a foot hold broke.

Steve and I started on the Pint Wall doing the three completed routes, two 16s and a 17. Steve onsighted both 16s and then proceeded to traverse terrifying far right on the 17. After that we moved onto the descent gully wall where we knocked over a nice little 18 and another new route that is graded somewhere between 16 and 20 - needs a few more ascents to decide the grade.
After that Gav and myself had a go at a new line on the Lust For Life Wall (photo above). A funny little climb requiring thrutching to the first bolt, bridging to the second, chimneying to the third, laybacking to the forth and then a nice few face moves to the top. After both having a dog on it - I had a go at redpointing the route. Reaching for the top of the crag a footer broke and I took a small lead fall, next time (still needs lower-offs anyway). Strange route should go at 21.

Next up Steve stole my prize line up the slab. I was going to call it Beefcake because you need to be a powerhouse to tick this little number - now we have to see what name Steve believes befits such a line. Anyway it is stitched up slab with 6 carrot bolts and a top out - it goes at solid grade 12. I bolted it to be the ideal first lead for newbies.

The day finished with some sieging by Gav and I on Rappers Delight 24 (below). This is on the same slab as Beefcake but a tad blanker. It is an awesome line with a hard crux pulling on to the slab at the first bolt, from there it is beautiful padding up a slab with nice ringbolts every 2-3m. I think it is a three star 24 route but even better as 19 with a batman start of the first bolt. Gav nabbed the first ascent just as rain threatened to fall, some quick lowering and fast belaying by Steve saw just enough time for me to get the second ascent, then badlight and rain bought a good days play to an end.

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